Wardrobe Planning Spring 2014

I've been grabbing every spare second I can to get some sewing done this week, but sadly I still have nothing to show you. In the meantime I do have some wardrobe plans to share with you.

I use wardrobe planning to help me decide what to sew, and what to buy. The ultimate goal is to develop a functional wardrobe that reflects my own personal style.

First up is my own Spring Wardrobe. I've been following along with The Colleterie's Wardrobe Architech Series. Below are the results of weeks worth of planning. 

To Buy: 

• Black Velvet Flats
• Mint Sneakers
• Cream Art Sneakers or Sandles
• Oatmeal Crocheted Cardigan
• Princess Seam Denim Jacket
• Cuffed Denim Capri 
• Aqua V-Neck Tee (I could make it, but I really love the one I picked out)

To Make:

• Ombre or Tie Dye Hoodie
• Extra Large Print Sheath Dress
• Black Lace Embellished Camisole 
• Dark Blue Open Knit Hoodie
• Red Short Sleeve Wrap Top
• Aqua Camisole
• Aqua Trumpet Mini Skirt (My favorite!)
• Red Cuffed Shorts
• Denim Cuffed Shorts
• Black Wrap Dress

It seems like a lot of new pieces to add to a wardrobe in a single season, but I actually own very little that I love to wear, so I need a lot. Of course I probably won't get half through the list by the end of the season, but it is a place to start. 

I also designed a Spring Wardrobe for each of the girls. In the past I have had the girls pin items that the liked to there Lookbooks on Pinterest and used them to find inspiration when sewing for them. 

This time I took a slightly different approach. I had them each spend a day browsing the internet for their favorite things, an activity they both loved. They clipped hundreds of  items they liked to their own Polyvore collection. Then they were each able to pick one favorite item that would definitely be in their finished set. I used that piece as a starting point for their wardrobe and edited down there picks and added a few of my own ideas to make a complete collection.

Let's start with my girly girl Bella. Her wardrobe includes a lot of white, which makes me nervouse for a girl who loves to play in the mud. We'll have to save those pieces for special occasions.

To Buy:

• Aqua Sandles
• Tan Cowgirl Boots (Her Favorite)

To Make:

• White lace trimmed Cardigan
• Pink Blazer with White Trim
• Purple Ballerina Wrap
• Aqua A line T shirt
• Feather and Leather Pony Tie
• Pink Ruffle Tank - completed
• White Tank with Pastel Print
• White Camisole with Pink Lace Trim
• Purple Twirl Skirt
• White Capri with Aqua Ruffles or Bows
• Floral Shorts - completed
• Tan Equestrienne Leggings
• Purple Flowy Ruffly Dress

And Finally Ashley. She chose a girly punk rock style, with lots of animal prints. Since She doesn't wear dresses I added a few extra accessories to her wardrobe to dress it up a bit. 

To Buy:

• Leopard Print Flats
• Silver Sandles
• Unicorn Cuff Bracelet 

To Make:

• Open Knit Mint Crop Top
• Mint Panda High Low Top (Ashley's Favorite, might be moved to they buy list)
• Mint or Purple Slouchy Cardigan 
• Black Open Knit Top
• Simple Purple Fitted Tee
• Black and Leopard Heart Tank with Ruffles
• Purple or Black Camisole
• Zebra Print Yoga Capri
• Black Sequence Shorts
• Leopard Print Leggings
• Black Harem Pants
• Purple and Silver Fold Over Elastic Hair Ties
• Silver Hand Bag

So that's it for the girls in our family. I have never done any wardrobe planning for the boys, mostly because they don't have (or want) a defined style. I might attempt it in the future, but for now I'll just stick to planning for the girls. 

Have you ever planned out your sewing for the season, or do you just sew what feel like making as you go along? If you have planned do you find it easy or difficult to stick to your plan?

Wardrobe Building Exorcises

How often do you wear the things you sew?

 Every once in a while I'll get lucky and sew something for myself that becomes a regular part of my wardrobe, but most of the stuff I make is only worn once or twice. It really is quite frustrating if you think about it.

It’s not just a matter of the time and money I put into a project, but it also adds to the clutter and waste that I have to deal with. I happen to hate clutter and waste so this is very troubling. 

It’s a problem that has been plaguing me for most of my adult life. Not just with sewing but with clothing in general. I am a victim of the disposable clothing mindset.

I keep hearing over and over again that the solution is to by quality over quantity, but that isn't always possible. Sure I would love to by a $200 ethically made designer silk shirt, but I would also like to pay my electric bill.

Another solution that is popular among bloggers is refashioning. I have made some amazing outfits for the kids with this method, and they are things that get worn over and over again all year round. 

However it doesn't seem to work out that well when sewing for myself. I have had some great luck finding shoes in thrift stores but never any clothes that I can see myself turning into something I would wear.

The way I usually acquire a new item is to see it on a blog or in a store and then purchase it (or the materials to make it), just like most people. But what if I turned things around a bit. Maybe the solution is to figure out what I like to wear first, and then buy or make only what fits that description.

I’ve been following a series on The Colleterie (My most favoritist blog ever) called WardrobeArchitect. It’s designed to make you think about designing a wardrobe that fits your tastes, body shape, and lifestyle. As the series goes on I believe she will also talk more about making it all work together.

Each week Sarai posts a new topic that builds on the previous weeks and an assignment to help you work towards building your perfect wardrobe. Part of the assignment involves collecting pictures to help you get a visual idea of the look you want. I've been using a Pinterest board that I named Core Style. Hopefully by the time I am ready to take on my next big sewing project I’ll be better equipped to make something that will get used over and over again.

If anyone else decides to make a Pinterest board and follow along with the Wardrobe Architech series be sure to add a link to it in the comments section of this post so I can follow along with your progress. 

The Essential Guide to Choosing Your Sewing Patterns

Top Pattern Collection Tip: After finding and listing all of the patterns you will need, organize them by company to take advantage of discounts and sales. You can use the printable worksheets in this post to help you.

Attempting to sew a  year round wardrobe for 3 kids is a big undertaking. Not only does it require a substantial amount of time, but the money that you would normally be spending on clothes goes to patterns, fabric and notions leaving little room for error. Even with that in mind, the results of sewing an entire year round wardrobe can be rewarding beyond measure. 

 The first step to sewing a designer wardrobe  is to acquire a collection of  quality sewing patterns.

As with most things, careful planning can help you reach your goal. Today's post focuses on selecting the patterns you will need. These patterns are your building blocks. They are the structure of your wardrobe. Every thing that comes after is cosmetic. I've included two free printables (see download links below) that I created and use myself to help keep my projects organized. 

The Pattern Collection Building Worksheet can be used as a checklist for the basic patterns that you will need to sew a year round wardrobe for a girl. If you are sewing for a boy you can still use the printable. They're is plenty of room to add additional options.

The Sewing Pattern Wish List  printable can be used by anyone, even if you are not planning to sew your child's entire wardrobe. It is a pattern wishlist that can be organized by company. Print one sheet for each company. I keep them with my sewing patterns and when there's a sale on a particular company I pull out the corresponding wishlist and stock up. It's also great for taking advantage of the multi-purchase  discounts that many pattern companies offer. 

But with so many patterns out there how do you choose?

My pattern selection process starts with three basic questions.

What do you know?

Read as many reviews as you can about the pattern. Is there a common problem that a lot of people have? If there is do you know how to fix it? Are you familiar with the suggested fabrics and techniques?

What can this pattern teach me?

If the answer to any of the previous questions are a no, that doesn't mean that the pattern is not worth buying. Take a closer look at it. Is there something really unique about this pattern that you don't think you could do without instructions? I have included a section in the first printable called Learning Patterns. I reserve this space for the "statement" pieces of my children's wardrobe. These patterns include techniques that I want to learn and improve on. They also feature an interesting and unique design to add a little style and flair.

What else can I do with this pattern?

The majority of your patterns will be basic patterns. You will want to keep them as simple as possible so that you can alter them to create a few looks from the same pattern. My children will go through at least 10 pairs of pants each in a year. That's 30 pairs of pants that I need to be able to make out of 3 or 4 patterns. Dress patterns can also be used to make shirts and skirts and vice versa. The best patterns are the ones that come with variations. If you have a dress pattern with multiple sleeve options, you can then use those sleeves on any garment that you want.

Where do you start?

There are an infinite number of patterns available on the market. Sorting through them all and weighing their pros and cons can be overwhelming  The best thing to do is start with what you know. Choose two or three pattern company's that you are familiar with, either from sewing with them before or from reading lots of reviews. 

Buying the majority of your sewing patterns from just a handful of company's will make it easier to mix and match the design elements giving you infinite possibilities. 

It will also help you become familiar with the quirks and techniques that each company uses frequently and in turn your sewing projects will be completed much faster and easier.

Most likely, you will not be able to find everything you need from these few companies. I would never recommend buying a pattern that you don't absolutely love under any circumstances. You will be using these patterns over and over again for at least a year, possibly longer depending on the size options. After choosing as many patterns as possible from your main companies, venture out and find one or two more sources that you can use as a backup for when you can't find exactly what your looking for.

Here is a list of the company's I use. If you scroll down farther you will see exactly which pattern's I use from each company and why. I prefer independent pattern companies for the convenience,  more accurate sizing charts, and the number of reviews available.

My Top 3 Choices for Patterns

Peek a Boo Pattern Shop(affiliate link)

Go To Patterns(affiliate link)

Violet Fields Threads (mostly learning patterns)

My Back Ups

Etsy

Simplicity 

Simplicity has a huge selection but I recommend using a muslin because sizing their sizing charts tend to be off.

My Essential Patterns

Pants

Woven Fabric - Still looking Please leave suggestions in the comments

Knit (Stretch Jeans) - Peek a Boo Pattern Skinny Jeans (affiliate link)

Why: Bonus matching doll pants, easy to slim down or add more ease for other pants styles

Knit (Leggings) - Go To Leggings (affiliate link)

Why: The pattern includes lots of variations in length and details

Pajamas - Simplicity 3669

Why: Pajama pants are fairly easy to draft on your own, but I liked the tops available with this one. The pants are also very easy to adjust for size

Shorts - drafted from pants pattern

Tops

Woven Bodice - Violette Fields Threads, Josephine

Why: tailored collar, two sleeve options, also includes a dress option

Knit Bodice - Carousel Top(affiliate link)

Why: Received great reviews from others, easy to alter 

Sleeve Type Variations - Go To Signature Dress pattern (affiliate link)

Why: 7 sleeve options, Tons of other variations

Necklines - Elkie Dress from My Childhood Treasures shop on Etsy

Why: Turtle Neck

Dresses and Skirts

Knit Dress - Go To Signature Dress pattern(affiliate link)

Why: Tons of options, the possibilities are endless

Woven (lined dress) Go To Patterns Juliette(affiliate link)

Why: Includes a petticoat 

Woven (unlined dress) - Simplicity 3902

Why: This is possibly the most perfect pattern to ever come out of simplicity. The sizing is accurate, the princess seams are perfect and it is very easy to put together.

Knit Skirt - Self Drafted Pattern

Why: You can find tons of free tutorials with a simple Google search

Woven Skirt - The Lexi Skirt from Rubie Jeans Closet on Etsy

Why: Basic yet interesting design

Outerwear

Lined Jacket - Still looking, Please leave your sugestions in the comments

Unlined Jacket - Jalie 2795

Why: Every size from toddler to adult. You can use it year after year for every member of your family. If you are comfortable with pattern altering you can also remove the zipper to make a pull over hoodie. 

Winter Coat - Still Looking, Please leave your suggestions in the comments

Raincoat - Peekaboo Patterns Puddle Jumper Raincoat (affiliate link)

Why: The sizing is much more accurate than other raincoat patterns I've tried

Winter Coat - Still Looking, Please leave your suggestions in the comments

Hoodie - Go To Patterns, Hang Out Hoodie(affiliate link)

Why: Multiple sleeve options and a dress options

Cardigan - Peek a Boo Patterns V-Neck Cardigan(affiliate link)

Other

Basic Panty - Hipster or Biking from Monkeys Bug on Etsy

Why: Just a personal preference

Swimsuit - Peek a Boo Patterns Sun and Fun(affiliate link)

Why: Basic easy to alter, also great for ballet leotards

Bathrobe - Still looking, Please leave your suggestions in the comments

Backpack - Still looking, Please leave your suggestions in the comments

Handbag - Mother Huddle Little Bitty Bag
Why: This is a free pattern and it is better then any handbag pattern I have bought

Bolero - Simple Shrug Bolero from Jocole on Etsy

Why: The pattern needs a little bit of adjustments to make it perfect but it includes a bonus matching doll pattern.

Learning Patterns

Peek A Boo Patterns Jasmine - One shoulder dress (affiliate link)

Peekaboo Pattern Pier 49 - Convertible Pants (affiliate link)

Violette Fields Threads Chloe - Contour Gown

Violette Field Threads Vivienne - Layered Skirt with ruffles 

Violette Field Threads Whitney - Pleated Trousers and skirt

I am still looking for a pattern that teaches bound buttonholes. Please leave your suggestions in the comments.

Some Sketching and Waiting

Almost all of my sewing time has been going to one big project. At least it's big for me. I would love to tell you what it is, but that would ruin the surprise. There are a few other non top secret projects that I am excited about as well, but unfortunately I am still waiting on fabric.

I've tried and tried to organize my huge fabric stash but those stupid laws of physics always get in the way. You can't fit something with a large volume (no matter how you fold it) into a tiny space. 

The most obvious solution would be to sew only from my stash until I cut it down. Yea, I'm not doing that, but I am only buying fabric when I have a plan for it. That means I am doing a lot of planning and then going crazy while I wait for the fabric to get here.

Fabric.com was having a great sale for 20% off any order over $40.00, so I sketched out my plans, picked my favorite and ordered a lot of fabric. All together the total came to $35.00 (after the sale) and I got 7 yards of fabric and a few notions. My planning also includes using up 2 yards of fabric from my stash. 

The raglan shirt below is going to for be for my daughter Ashley. Her style leans slightly in the direction of tomboy. She hates dresses and ruffles and lace, but she does love the color pink.

Update: See the finished mixed fabric raglan t shirt and a tutorial here.

Next up is a project for my son and husband that I am very excited about. We watched Rise of the Guardians as a family and I studied Jack Frost's sweatshirt most of the time. For a cartoon it shows incredible details. You can even see the seam lines. 

Add caption

And finally my ugly vintage pattern remixes. I am planning to get two spring dresses out of this pattern. It is the first on the list to be completed and I will give you all of the details when it's done but here is a peek at what's to come. 

Update : The first dress is done. See it Here

Thanks so much for looking. Feel free to share your sewing to do list in the comments.